It’s not often we get to dine with nobility, so we couldn’t resist the invitation to meet Count Francesco Marone Cinzano. Signore Cinzano looks like an Italian Ernest Hemingway, but has a far more refined drinking style—chiefly, the Brunello di Montalcino for which his estate is famous. The 1,300-acre Col d’Orcia (“hill overlooking the Orcia River”) dates to the 1700s, and is one of the largest in Montalcino. The Count was in town to share a selection of single Riserva Brunello—Poggio al Vento 2006, 2004 and 2001—as well as the 2010 vintage of the signature estate wine. Ever the traditionalist, he said of Super Tuscans, “Unfortunately, prices have become silly. I am convinced, in wine, as in other things in life, quality will prevail.”
